An album I’d loved for a decade disappeared from my streaming library one Tuesday with no warning and no explanation — a licensing deal lapsed somewhere between a label and a service, and the music simply stopped existing for me. The CD was on the shelf two metres away the whole time, smug and permanent. That was the day I stopped trusting rented music and started ripping the discs and records I actually own, and if you have a shelf of CDs slowly turning into landfill or a crate of vinyl you never play, this is the project worth a weekend.
The goal isn’t just to copy the music. It’s to copy it once, correctly, in a format you’ll still be able to open in twenty years, tagged well enough to actually find, and backed up so a single dead drive can’t undo the whole effort. Do it sloppily and you’ll be re-ripping the same Fleetwood Mac album for the third time in 2031. Do it properly and you never touch the physical disc again.
The format question, settled
Most arguments about audio formats are people shouting past each other because they want different things. Here’s the honest breakdown for someone digitising a collection on a Mac, where the real fault line is lossless for the archive, lossy for convenience.
| Format | Lossless? | Best for | Native in the Music app? |
|---|---|---|---|
| ALAC (Apple Lossless) | Yes | Your archive, if you live in Apple’s world | Yes |
| FLAC | Yes | A cross-platform archive that outlives any one brand | No, Finder previews it but the library won’t manage it |
| MP3 at 320 | No | Old car stereos and anything ancient | Yes |
| AAC at 256 | No | Everyday listening, smallest file that still sounds great | Yes |
| WAV or AIFF | Yes, uncompressed | Editing masters before you compress them | Yes, but no tags and enormous |
My standing advice: rip to a lossless master and keep it forever, then make lossy copies for your phone and car whenever you want. The two real contenders for the master are ALAC and FLAC. They sound identical — both are mathematically perfect copies of the disc — and the only real difference is politics. ALAC plays everywhere in Apple’s ecosystem with zero friction. FLAC is the open standard the rest of the audio world uses, and it’s the safer bet if you ever suspect you might leave the Mac. I keep FLAC masters on my archive drive and let the Music app hold ALAC and AAC copies, which gives me the open format for the long haul and the convenient one for daily life.
Ripping CDs: the Music app is fine, XLD is better
Your Mac hasn’t had an optical drive in over a decade, so step one is any cheap USB CD drive — they cost about fifteen pounds and you’ll use it for a fortnight then lend it to everyone you know.
The simplest path is the Music app. Plug in the drive, insert a disc, and before you import anything, go to Settings → Files → Import Settings and choose your encoder — Apple Lossless for masters. The Music app fetches track names automatically and the whole thing is two clicks. It’s perfectly good for a tidy, modern collection.
For anything precious or scratched, I use XLD (X Lossless Decoder), the free Mac tool audiophiles have quietly relied on for years. The difference that matters is AccurateRip: XLD checks every track it pulls against a giant database of other people’s rips of the same disc, so you get told, with certainty, whether your copy is bit-perfect or whether a scratch introduced an error you’d never hear until the worst moment. It can output FLAC or ALAC directly, and for a scratched charity-shop disc it’ll re-read the damaged section until it gets a clean pass. That confidence is the whole reason to bother.
A word on where you actually listen to all this. The Music app is a perfectly decent player for ALAC and AAC, and for most people it’s the end of the story. If you went the FLAC route, though, the Music library won’t import those files cleanly, so you’ll want a dedicated player that handles them natively — apps like Doppler or Vox on the Mac, or a proper library manager if your collection runs to thousands of albums. Pick the player to suit the format you chose, not the other way round, and don’t let an app’s limitations push you into ripping in a worse format than you meant to.
Vinyl is a different animal entirely
You cannot “rip” a record. There’s no data on it to copy — only a groove that has to be played in real time and recorded as it goes, which means a forty-minute album takes forty minutes, plus the patience to do it once and do it right.
The signal chain matters. A record player’s output is tiny and tonally skewed, so it needs a phono preamp to correct it before anything else touches it. Some turntables have one built in with a USB output, which is the easy route; otherwise you run the deck through a standalone phono preamp into an audio interface that does the analogue-to-digital conversion. Record the whole side into Audacity (free), capturing at 24-bit to give yourself headroom, then do three jobs: split the long recording into individual tracks, use the click-and-pop removal to tidy the worst surface noise without scrubbing the life out of the music, and export each track as a lossless master. It’s fiddlier than a CD by a wide margin. It’s also the only way that crackly first pressing ever lives on your phone.
Metadata is the part that decides whether you ever find anything
A perfectly ripped album with no tags is a folder full of “Track 01” that you’ll never play again. Metadata — artist, album, year, track number, genre, and crucially the embedded cover art — is what turns ten thousand files into a library you can actually browse.
The Music app’s automatic lookup is good enough for mainstream releases. For box sets, obscure pressings, classical music, or anything where the automatic guess comes back wrong, the tool to know is MusicBrainz Picard, a free tagger that fingerprints the actual audio and matches it against a community database that’s far deeper than the commercial ones. It’ll correctly tag a 1970s Japanese pressing that the Music app has never heard of. Get the tags right before the files go into your library, because fixing five hundred mislabelled tracks after the fact is the kind of chore that ends collections.
The archive: where it lives, and why one copy is no copy
A rip you’ve done once and stored in one place is a rip you will eventually lose. The rule every photographer and every person who’s been burned already knows: one copy is no copy. Your lossless masters belong on a dedicated external SSD, not scattered across the Mac’s internal drive where they’ll crowd out everything else, and that SSD needs at least one backup — a second drive, or an encrypted cloud archive, ideally both. The masters are the irreplaceable thing; the AAC copies on your phone can always be regenerated from them in an afternoon.
| Step | Do this once | Never skip |
|---|---|---|
| Capture | Rip or record to lossless | Verifying CDs with AccurateRip |
| Tag | Fix metadata and cover art before import | Embedding the artwork into the file |
| Store | Masters on an external SSD | A second backup copy |
| Enjoy | AAC copies on phone and car | Keeping the masters untouched |
There’s a romance to streaming — everything, instantly, forever — right up until the “forever” turns out to be a contract someone else can cancel. The records and discs on your shelf made you no such promise and broke none; they just sat there being permanently, boringly yours. Spend the weekend digitising them properly, in an open lossless format with clean tags and a real backup, and you build the one music library that no licensing dispute, no app shutdown, and no service tier can ever take away from you. The discs can finally go in the loft. The music stays.
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